Deadzone Terrain 95% done

With a spate of warmer/dryer weather I managed to get my ruins tiles done.  Past few nights have been some assembly sessions and now this is the result.  It's a good volume of terrain for the mat and I'm quite please with how it has turned out.  You can see the flyers/posters I have glued on both inside and outside in places. I used the photos with flash as it lets you see more detail.

top down view

There is still some work to be done;

• few more lamps and ladders need spraying platemail, washed and glued on - if you look closely you can see some lamps are painted "off" and another is "on".
• couple more ramps and walkways need salt mask, space wolf grey - we had the temperature drop for a couple days and then mostly rain so that has been delayed - not much effort required.
• touch ups on railings - the hazard stripes need cleaning up.
• weather all the pieces with powders - this is the big one, I plan to wait for nicer weather as I don't want all my work getting rubbed off before the final stage
• seal everything!

more of a side view

Getting these finished has really sparked my mind in terms of other terrain - though I will be getting brush to fig first a bit.

All in it's about 108 painting points and I have some more clutter accessories and such I can do at a later time.

Random Game photos from Canadian Open weekend

As is usual the weekend of the Canadian Open, a lot of buddies crash at my place and Friday/Saturday night are given over to playing other board and card games.  In addition to the below we also played some Dominion and lots of the Resistance.

Castles of Mad King Ludwig

Was happy to get a run out for my Space Hulk set.  Playing with fully painted figs really makes it a gorgeous game. We had a player each for the terminator squads and two guys play genestealers.

Space Hulk board

fancy edited photo

less fancy but still edited photo

Finally got a game of deadzone in against Dan who pledged into the kickstarter but hasn't had a game yet. He played enforcers with some proxy marines of mine and I played with my painted marauders.

He caught onto the rules pretty quick (those short/long action flowcharts really help) and due to some epic poor rolling from my goblin sniper (3 successes on 9 dice! TWICE) and a mistake I made with my mawbeast (not enraged before attacking) I lost the chance to really hurt his team, and once he figured out the differences between shoot and blaze he was much more effective in his decisions - he smoked me 11VP or something to 0.

bit fuzzy

much clearer

Hope you enjoy the photos.  This is one of my favourite parts about the tournament as I get to play a bunch of games as well :)

Deadzone Marauders - 4 more figures complete

Most of the base coating for these figures was done last year, but finally towards February of this year I began having an itch to paint again so I got them finished up. This represents 5 painting points (2 for the captain, 1 for each of the others) the captain has some significant highlights compared to the commandos, and the sniper has some extra detailing to make his cloak look like it was selected to match my deadzone terrain (unlike their generic strike team camouflage)

Commando Captain

I had to add a piece of terrain snipped off a door underneath his right foot to keep him balanced on the clear base.  The dullcote didn't seem to do as good a job on these guys I may try to protect the clear base and give them another spritz.

Commando with 2 guns

Love this guys head with the skull plate, the two guns do nothing in game terms he just looks bad ass. He's got long sleeves so not much skin, but I stuck with doing highlights using yellow directly on the goblin green skin and it works great IMO.

Commando

Gave this guy a simple head swap so he doesn't quite match the last one done using this body.

Goblin Sniper

Do like these guys, they are potentially powerful in the game but very unreliable due to their poor shooting skill.  Was pretty happy with how the cloak came out so it looks like he equipped himself for my terrain.

Between the last four and these four I have enough for a legit strike team while adding a few things like extra ammo, etc.  I will probably continue to try and paint up more of these guys in batches of four until they are all finished rather than switching gears to other factions.  I have another commando, another mawbeast, some more snipers and the pyro still to go.  Was planning to try and pick up an old AoBR ork warboss from the old GW 40K box since I like it better than the marauder warlord figure.

deadzone "rainmaker" ripper suit

Finally got back into the groove on this guy. Missing the shoulder gun during assembly really annoyed me about the whole thing. There is lots of fiddly details but I kept it pretty tabletop so left a lot of that detail to "come out in the wash" (hahaha).

view from right

I used the nihilakh oxide technical paint to give the tin weapons a verdigris look,which I particularly like on these hulking monstrosities. I combined that with the same coal black + drybrush silver for his weapons. I stole the red/yellow/green power bar for his laser weapon from someone I saw online.

view from left

I also decided to spread around the resin scenery that comes with the plague stage 2As. Why are they the only one's to get some? It definitely will tie in with my scenery.

more deadzone terrain acccessories

Just a quick one today - finished the painting part on the last set of deadzone terrain accessories. Technically they still need weathering powders but those take so long I'm going to save up a bunch of terrain to do all at once.

Started by priming with cheap krylon spray "ruddy brown", then an extremely light drybrush with P3 pig iron, followed by a thinned devlan mud wash. Then I applied the decals which I think I took from an old epic titans decal sheet. Finally I used a bit of foam to sponge apply some damage with vallejo tin.

deadzone miniatures review - part 2

Quick part two review of the deadzone figures. Assembling the second batch of marauders I've come upon a few more issues. The first is this guy - the captain. I'm not sure exactly what's the matter, but if the ammo box he's standing on is flat, then his right foot is way up in the air. I think I read about some other folks having this problem but I can't find it and thus can't note their solution. His whole body is one piece so warming it up and bending it probably won't do much. I will state that the body was very good for mold lines, but I am probably gonna have to use a little piece of something under his right foot.

Second issue was I think a casting one. I had done some minor converting to this guy to swap heads with the other duplicated commando figure to add a bit of variety. Then as I was clipping off his base, his entire right leg just popped off. There must have been some bubble or casting inconsistency as I didn't do anything different to the other figures I removed the base from.  In the third pic down you can see how clean the snap is and how there appears some colour striations which makes me think it wasn't as solid as usual.

Thankfully I found the leg so hopefully a bit of epoxy and liquid green stuff will fix this guy up.

If I place the two pieces together they don't match perfectly - further supporting my thoughts.

So once again these are not the best miniatures in the world, but for the price which was not Reaper Bones cheap but pretty close I'd say they are still a good step above. Still frustrating to deal with but at least they come out with decent detail.

deadzone mawbeast

Sorry for the crappy pics - I just can't be arsed to spend any time getting nicer photos when I know how easy it will be once my FOLDIO shows up. I've finished up the first mawbeast, taking the advice of my man Axtlinge from Merry Mayhem News & NABBO league fame - and mimicking a "paroedura bastardi" gecko pattern on his fur using the same camouflage colours as the other marauders. I tried building a little "stamping tool" using some pluck foam bits. Unfortunately it was just too big to use on the mawbeasts fur as you can see below.

What I ended up doing instead is making a couple much smaller individual stamps and just doing the pattern manually. I used a dark grey instead of black but the red I kept the same. I used the same coal black I painted the commandos rifles for his nose and used iyanden darksun for his mane & tail. Any metallics are the same as well. A couple watered down coats of devlan mud followed and I am pretty happy with the result.

Did a quick "gem" job on his cybernetic eye and the usual clear acrylic base. When trying to glue him on the first time I accidentally spread the two part epoxy all over and was quite annoyed as I thought I'd ruined the base. However I found out that if you are quick enough and it hasn't set - it is quite easy to wipe the base completely clean with nothing but a paper towel. So a second try later and I had him glued to the same base. Score!

Next up is the first ripper suit. I have been delayed painting this guy because without any assembly instructions I ended up missing a gun piece that is supposed to mount on his backpack. In doing so I put a little accessory right in the way so I've had to do some cutting and chopping to get it to fit and that part isn't primed. Still I intend to get started on him - what are peoples thoughts for his scheme? Should I follow the same simple camo scheme on the marauders or maybe use the bigger stamping tool I couldn't use on the mawbeast? This is what the suit looks like - he is plenty big and will be the first to go on a 40mm clear acrylic base.

deadzone accessories painted

Another quick little snap of some deadzone progress. There is one more batch of little accessories to do, but I don't have a suitable different colour spray to use. I had definitely planned to use the yellow spray on the containers with the hazard symbol, and I picked up some cheap krylon sprays recently and the olive green works well for the boxier crates.

To mix it up a bit I used two different colours on the hazard symbol and applied some decals to the green crates - then I used a bit of sponge to apply some damage/weathering in a metallic colour. The last set of accessories are gas can looking and I hope to find some red or brownish colour to spray them.

* oops that just reminded me I need to add some weathering powders onto these pieces - will probably keep it simple with one colour each, not sure about any washes.

second marauder commando

Just a quick one today to show off the second marauder I've finished. That's half of the first four figures I've put together. I hope this camo scheme works well on the ripper suit. Tried to keep the palette very limited.

I would also love some suggestions for paint scheme for the mawbeast I've assembled in this post. I decided instead of using some green stuff to cover up the miscast bomb, I cut the bomb part off anyways since they haven't made a bomb-less mawbeast yet.

first deadzone figure finished - marauder commando

This guy is from the "Marauder Extra 1" bag and is the only piece it contains. I think somehow I ended up with an extra of these guys, though it's hard to tell. I have another commando pose with most of the basecoats done and that should be my next completed deadzone fig. I chose a very "GW 40K Blood Axe Ork" scheme using grey's and a bit of camo. The battle gear these guys have along with all the packs and pouches reminded me very much of the blood axes.

base? what base?

Tested out a couple "tricks" on this figure. One is the manner in which I highlighted his flesh. Everyone knows yellow is a hard colour to get good coverage with, so for a test I tried highlighting his flesh with yellow straight from the pot (it was a P3 yellow, but quite bright) meaning a thin coat did a great job of lightening the goblin green colour and it was much quicker than having to mix a highlight tone. It may be hard to tell from these photos but I was very happy with the result. If anyone cares I can try to take some in progress pics.

on table

on scenery

Trick number two was attempting to use a dip/stain to handle shading.  I mixed up a tiny bit of wood stain with a bunch of water in a paint pot and tried applying it with a piece of foam. It ended up being way to dark and I'm not sure why.  I used the same stain as on my Pit Slaves and just dabbed it on. Perhaps the base colours just don't work as well or maybe I just did not use enough water in the mix. I will have to check out the army painter dips at some point but I managed to clean most of it off with water and a toothbrush. There are bits left which actually just look like dirt & grime so I will probably use a touch of it on every fig in opportune places.

on table

on scenery

The final trick is obviously the clear acrylic base from litko bases (picked up on boxing day sale from the FLGS meeplemart's online shop) It's an interesting concept to avoid the need to paint any bases and pretty much just match whatever scenery you are playing on. At first I was very "gung-ho" to put all the deadzone figures on these bases - but I think I may backtrack from that a bit. While cool when on the scenery it does detract a bit from the figure when just on the table. The plague faction will definitely get them since they have scenery bits as part of the figures and I intend to paint them the same as my terrain. Having second thoughts for the enforcer and rebs factions though. Might use them for a necromunda gang in the future and definitely will be using them for a blood bowl team. Hope everyone likes the "edited & effects" photo at the top of the post - I used some control points in google+ image editor to fade out the base as much as possible, then used some visual effects similar to the space hulk photos I posted earlier this year. It's a bit obvious from the fading but I thought it was fun.

first deadzone terrain piece finished

Well the first piece is finished. Over the last week I've applied a bunch of weathering powders, some decals and glued on some little "posters" I've printed out. I've tried some different methods of using the powders mixed with washes which worked fairly well. I also have been using 3 different tones of the rust series. I do have to say that it is quite time consuming and I should maybe save these (or even sell them off) for very particular effects and that after seeing the results Anton achieved using modelmates rust spray, it definitely seems a better way to go for large pieces like this.  Perhaps a combination though I am not unhappy with the powder results.

a decal by the door plus powders & washes

The print outs didn't actually print that well - I cheated and just used some old photo paper in the inkjet at work, and some of them faded or misprinted. To be honest, many of them are still usable since they will match the aged/weathered look of the tiles.

fuel storage sign, covered with washes and powders

I am debating whether I should actually glue some fuel tanks to the side of the building or not, I am still leaning towards not, since they will be more useful loose to be placed wherever you need (they could go on the roof too.

warning sign posted and powders & powders/washes

Using the grid on the top I felt it looked really smart to have the rusty wash pool along the grid lines. I tried to use a marauder boot with some paint to leave boot prints but it didn't work very well. Instead I just ended up cleaning (not really the right word) up the boot print with some freehand. It looks OK, but not as nice as I'd hoped.

small decal - sorry for blurry photo

I am really happy with the deadzone terrain - I've mentioned to some friends it's right in between the necromunda bulkheads (which require some card) and the platformer/hexagon stuff (which are more complex to assemble, but can provide much more complex buildings). Looking forward to getting more put together - I hope to get some games in soon.

deadzone terrain accesories

Let's have a look at some of the accessories that come with the deadzone terrain.  First up a couple snaps of my first piece of terrain with some additional details. I added a ladder to the rear and a couple railings to the sides. The railings were sprayed with the same yellow as the detailing on the tiles, and I built a cheap stencil with popsicle sticks to do a quick and dirty job of hazard stripes. They look quite decent IMO and I just used a medium grey to do a quick line highlight. If the highlight got too think I just wiped most of it off.

rear photo from the right

You can also see the ladder which I was originally debating doing in some brighter colour to make it stand out in game - but in the end I decided that for something like that why would anyone put that effort into it, so solid metal it is. I gave it a quick wash with badab black to pick out the rivets. I also did quite a bit of filing/scraping to get the mold lines off, I felt they would really detract from the look.

rear photo from the left

Finally here's a quick barrier I made up from two pieces and a street lamp. I decided that more yellow would not really do justice to the street lamp so I tried my hand at some red OSL. It came out OK, but I think I learned that next time, I am going to drybrush white before each successively brighter layer, because the red alone doesn't make enough difference. We'll see how that goes and compare the two later.

quick barrier with street lamp

Also it isn't quite well balanced - the street lamp connector doesn't quite touch the floor, and the lamp itself makes that side heavier so it leans over. I am not sure what I will do about it, I may use a piece that looks like a girder to prop it up or not, still debating.

Next up for these two pieces will be weathering powders and powders + washes.

first piece of deadzone terrain assembled

Found a bit of time late last night to try my hand at assembling some of the tiles I have painted. The first obvious thing to state is you just do not get enough connectors.  I thought people were saying this simply because they got the incorrect number of sprues. I tried to not use a connector in every socket possible to save some and am pretty sure I got away with it for the most part. The terrain is so sturdy I have no worries about even a heavy metal model causing structural integrity issues.

front side, had always planned for windows and barrier with stripe to go together

I still want to add some details to this piece.  I sprayed the ladder & streetlamp pieces metal last night and have been working on some of the crates and railings using a yellow spray as well. This piece will get a ladder going up the back and probably a set of railings or two. I am torn between gluing some crates down or just leaving them loose and putting them wherever they are needed at the time.

using a barrier as a wall will give a new dimension to movement in deadzone

It may seem a bit boring, but this structure manages to do a bunch of stuff I wanted to test out with my first deadzone building - namely 1) a barrier on top for protection 2) using a barrier as a wall 3) lots of doorways/windows/space so you can see the fluorescent lighting tile to a degree (see below). I am also pretty impressed with the strength of the connectors, none have snapped yet and I have used a set of pliers to get them to be as secure as possible.

look at the far roof tile to see the fluorescent lights

Really like the above picture, the grime on the inside walls is quite apparent and it should make for good battle report photos from a miniatures eye view. Once I get the railings and ladders glued on I am looking forward to using some rusty weathering powders to add a final touch of realism and also tie the tiles together since painting them separately is a tiny bit obvious once assembled.

???

PS. Does anyone know exactly what Mantic's thoughts for these pieces were?  They are clearly doors for the open tile next to the windows tile in my building, but there isn't really an easy way to connect them.  The little hook at the top works but I am not sure if they meant them to be glued together or act as temporary doors? Would love some thoughts?

Finally this was my brainchild but I am planning to do a lot of looking around for inspiration before I build the next building.  I also really want to spread around the yellow detailed tiles so I may start spraying up the second batch without any yellow so it's easier to make them appear more special.

mantic deadzone figures - quick review of assembly, quality, mold lines & flash

After getting started on the deadzone terrain, I put the plague faction on the shelf since my plans for painting them involve staining methods and will benefit greatly from a batch approach. Don't quite have the cycles for that at the moment - so I've decided to have a quick go at the marauders since I will probably use a more standard paint method for them and therefore doing a few pieces at at time should not cause a great variation in their appearance.

Lots of rumblings online about the quality of the figures and the difficulty of working with the restic material. Here are my thoughts and a bunch of pics. There is a good degree of detail on the figures - they look really good painted up and that after all is the end goal. Getting there is the issue.  A quick caveat that it seems some factions/figures are better/worse than others - so expect some variation.

First up lets have a look at a couple commandos.  I think there are 3 poses (only 2 in these pics), and I don't really see much capability for converting these particular figures amongst themselves for variation. Perhaps if you include the flame thrower guy you could do a bit of mixing with the model that has both arms attached to the weapon. The running commando is 4 pieces and had a fair amount of mold lines all over - including right through his face?!?!  Definitely a strange one.  The commando at attention was probably the best of these four figures for mold lines.  Easiest to clean areas and some cunningly concealed (practically the opposite of the running figure)

running commando - see where his arm was glued I felt needed some filler

running commando - strange that they have a mold line running through his face

commando at attention - some filler required for his right arm socket

Next up is the mawbeast - or chainsaw dog as some people are calling it. It's funny I dislike GWs cartoony orcs in their fantasy game, but always found it suited the rogue trader universe (aka pre grim-dark) quite well. The above orcs are very reminiscent and this guy fits right in.  The detail is not as nice as on the orcs - his chainsaw tongue's "teeth" aren't very crisp and neither are his feet/toes. I found he required a lot of filling between where the two pieces go together. This may just be me, but I found the gap between the bomb belt and his hindquarters to be very obvious and didn't like it, so I've used a couple rounds of liquid green stuff to fill it. He also has a LOT of mold lines and some like around the tail are easy to clean and some on his legs and feet are very difficult and will probably require further cleaning after a coat of primer. Also you'll notice his bomb is actually miscast I am going to have to sculpt some extra fur over it to cover the blemish (third pic) which is probably not that much difficult from finecast (which when it sucks - it SUCKS)

mawbeast - look at all the mold lines I've had trouble cleaning on his legs

mawbeast - this shows more mold lines and the huge gap between pieces

mawbeast - a huge chunk of the bomb is missing behind his fur

Finally we come to one of the rippers. I would have included a goblin sniper in this review, but both of mine's rifles bent quite badly due to a lack of packaging/protection in my shipment. I would put the ripper between the commandos and the mawbeast. His legs had quite a bit of mold lines and were difficult to remove without damaging the details. Both arms required some minor filler to look good, but this was due to the ability to choose which arms to use with which ripper, giving you the ability for some variety which is nice. His fingers also had tons of flash which was difficult to remove and the mold lines on his head ran all the way around his jaw. I think they tried to conceal it via his mouth line but in my eyes it failed.

ripper - filler was required between both arms & body, see mold lines too

ripper - filler was required between both arms & body

ripper - flashing on legs was minute, but difficult to remove without damage

I fully understand why folks are annoyed.  It is a lot of work to do a GOOD job of cleaning up the figures - if you are someone who doesn't usually bother removing mold lines or only cares to remove one's that will be obvious once painted then these figures are extremely good value. For anyone like me who prefers to do a really good job the amount of effort does add up and reduces the value somewhat since I would still rate it much tougher to clean than plastic, or even metal depending on the metal sculpt.  Still for the price they are good value and I'm looking forward to painting these guys up.

deadzone terrain - part 1

Originally my plan concerning deadzone was to get some models painted first. I have tons of suitable necromunda terrain that I could use to play on, so getting this terrain painted seemed a bit overkill. However there have been a lot of really great blog posts up about the terrain (find a sample at the end of this post) and I ended up devising a plan to get it painted using mostly spray paints which means prep, spray & then WAIT. So while I am currently painting up a counts as Ripper for my Insane Goblin Posse to prep for a tournament in February, I thought why not get this going as well. Also my waffling on paint scheme for the plague faction has meant I have not even started assembling/prepping those figs (and a good thing too, since now for the Stage 2 beastie that is vaulting a barrier, I can paint the barrier up in similar style to my terrain!) I may even end up starting to paint the marauder faction first, since it would be a more normal method (no multi-stage multi-colour stains) which means I could paint a couple figs at a time instead of batch painting (also I can proxy the plague with all my genestealer cult stuff)

Tile effect 1 (fluorescent lights)
For the square pieces that look like one side of a rubiks cube, I decided that since they were clearly meant to be a ceiling piece, I would paint one side like fluorescent lights. I realize once assembled you probably won't see it very much, but it will be a nice bit of detail for photos from the right angles and was not very difficult.

1. prime white
2. paint a coat of water effects
3. mask the "lights" in one direction and spray grey to cover the dividers
4. do the same in the opposite direction

fluorescent lighting tile

Here is the final effect, some of the grey seeped through the masking tape, but not enough to be ruined and it will actually look pretty derelict in my opinion.  Job done.  It looks a bit glossier than it does in this photo, but not a crazy amount.

Tile effect 2 (indoor walls)
Similar with the above, I wanted the insides to have a different colour.  It won't be easily noticable either, but will add an additional level of realism.

1. spray black (zenithal aimed upwards)
2. spray necrotic flesh (zenithal aimed downwards)

indoor tile

This gives some depth without a lot of effort - I made a simple spraying container with some bits of cardboard to hold the tiles at an angle to make spraying easier.  These also ended up looking much dirtier after I finished the other sides as some spray paint clearly seeped through the painters tape I used on the back.  Again I feel it just looks grimy & dirty and will suit very well. Job done.

Tile effect 3 (outdoor walls)
Now to make the outdoor walls special, I decided to do a few extra steps so these were generally more involved. I am extremely pleased with how they came out though and won't change anything for the second batch. I used a salt masking technique using cheap hairspray to stick salt to the tiles after the black/metal undercoat so I can easily show some battle damage/weathering.

1. spray black (zenithal aimed upwards)
2. spray plate metal (zenithal aimed downwards)
3. soak the tiles with hairspray
4. apply salt (I used both coarser sea salt and fine table salt) most folks suggest just the coarser but I felt a combination would look equally as realistic - I am quite happy with the effect
5. spray space wolves grey
6. very light spray of white (zenithal aimed downwards)
7. very light spray of space wolves grey (zenithal aimed upwards) - doing the grey a second time makes sure the white is mostly on the top edges
8. rub off the salt

outdoor tile

In my opinion these tiles look absolutely fantastic. The chipped areas from the salt masking show a metallic base to the tile which looks like very realistic battle damage - whether from bullets or shrapnel.

Tile additional effect (outdoor walls)
Finally I wanted to do some extra detailing on a few wall sections.  Less is more in this instance you want to pick very few tiles to do this to, since that makes it stand out more.  So I picked about half the tiles, thinking it's easier to skip this step for the next batch if it seems like too much to "dilute" the amount of variant tiles.

1. use painters tape to mark off the section of wall to be a different colour
2. soak the tiles with hairspray
3. apply salt (I used both coarser sea salt and fine table salt)
4. spray demonic yellow (bright yellow works pretty well with the bluish/grey of the rest of the tiles)
5. very light spray of white (zenithal aimed downwards)
6. gryphonne sepia wash
7. rub off the salt

outdoor tile with detailing

This is the part I am the least happy with. I'm not sure if it was the can of spray paint or if I didn't wait long enough for the hairspray to dry but the yellow was very wet and masked some of the detail.  That's why in the end I did the white zenithal highlight plus the gryphonne sepia wash to try and get that detail back.  In the end it does still look pretty decent and I am satisfied.

Also after rubbing off the salt, I would recommend that for tiles where you plan to do a second round of salt + spray paint (ie. the yellow) that you avoid the fine salt on the first colour (ie. the space wolf grey) since it ends up with several coats of paint over it, it is quite hard to get it back off and it doesn't do enough through the two colours.

For the corner connectors I decided to not even bother painting them at all.  You will barely see them so I didn't see much point.  For the outer connectors I painted them the same way as the outer tiles.  I was debating using the yellow until I was disappointed by it's coverage.

Here are a ton of links to people assembling and painting the deadzone terrain.  There is lots out there to inspire you, especially with what configuration to assemble the buildings/bits.  Next steps for me are to assemble this batch (at least one or two buildings - depending on the yellow bits I may need to paint the other tiles too so I can spread it out) and then applying some weathering powders and other details to the outside - at that point I will try to cover up little mistakes like the spray of yellow on the edge of the tile above.

White's Wolves ** absolutely fantastic tutorials here **
Anarchy of Anton!
Hammer Dialectic
Between the Bolter and Me
GMorts Chaotica